Same with food costs. Notice at the grocery store lately? The only thing going down is your home’s value compared to what you owe the bank for it, if you still got your house.  Nice bailout, folks.

With the Japan crisis and the big dip in available parts from there halted, the supply that was in the system is depleted and that is going to impact jobs here and our ability to build things. JOBS, people, JOBS. Globalization and its inherent interdependence does have it’s drawbacks. Some of what won’t be coming for a while from Japan are little things, really, but necessary things. Semiconductors, circuit boards, RAM chips, hybrid car parts. Small in the scheme of things, but it is always the little things. Like the price of a loaf of bread. Small if you have plenty, huge if you are hungry. Japanese markets haven’t been buying US Bonds as they now need the money for the clean up and rebuilding process. It is just out that the nuclear crisis is no smaller than Chernobyl and will take months to years to encapsulate it as best they can. Basically, Japan needs the money. Sorry for the bond market.

And the world is watching the US House of Representatives threatening to not increase the debt limit, is screaming about debt that was solely incurred in two separate cost-plus-no-bid-sweet-ass-deal-never-gonna-let-this-end-cause-we’re-getting-rich wars, both based on lies, not declared officially as war, and paid for with supplemental monies not included in the budget until President Obama. It doesn’t seem to actually matter who is spending what. It will take more of it sooner than later. The rest of the world knows this, and they are pulling their investments out, or at least not making new ones. Even the news that we finally got our main guy Usama bin Laden hasn’t helped much.

This is not a drill. This is not a test. This is an emergency and you should head for higher ground if you are on an island in the Pacific Ocean

Equal Opportunity Design

One doesn’t have to be old or permanently physically disabled to recognize the value and practicality of universal design. Anyone can be physically fit one moment and be suffering from a fracture or sprain or a cut, etc. the next. What was effortless before becomes acutely painful or physically impossible due to obstacles that limit accessibility to the countertops, sinks, storage and appliances in the kitchen. I have been told to think about the above mentioned scenario as being “Temporarily Able Bodied” and then being “Temporarily Disable Bodied.” Add that idea to the estimated 30 million people in this country who are already meeting the challenges of living at home and using a walker or a wheelchair everyday, not just temporarily. In addition, the “Baby Boomer” generation has begun to reach retirement age in full force. This convergence has made many of the physical issues prevalent with aging suddenly in full view for us all to see. Here I will present ideas on what factors to keep in mind and incorporate in your kitchen designs, how to avoid mistakes in your designs, and explain how some of these choices may be the most “Green” option, too.

Regardless of how one thinks about it or wants to refer to it, as barrier-free design, Universal design, or aging-in-place design, accessibility for all people regardless of physical limitation is the ultimate goal of these principles, whether a person is handicapped or not. A kitchen remodel design utilizing these principles allows for a more timeless approach, whereas “trends” and “fads” in kitchen design take a proverbial back burner to function and form, pun intended. As kitchen designers, we have the opportunity to design spaces that are functional as well as beautiful all of the time: that is our job. To design for the very long term using responsible components can be great for the environment, both inside the home and the environment, at large.

Many people are staying in their homes for the long term and for many good reasons. Feeling independent, being in a comfortable and familiar environment usually near family and friends are what we all want. No one wants to feel like they live in a hospital or institution when they look around their home. Fortunately for the designer and the client, many of the new products available for aging in place design are highly functional, stylish and innovative. This can make our jobs easier when it comes to the look of products, but function is still the key element to great design, so the location of these features and the overall layout become crucial for true accessibility and ease of use to occur.

The design fundamentals for sizes and measurements are quite different between standard kitchen design and that of universal design. The Americans with Disabilities Act created a basic set of ADAAG guidelines with specifics on things such as countertop and cabinetry mounting heights, sink depths, and aisle clearances. (A guide is available on the website.) There are other factors as well, some being intuitive and others less so but obvious in practical use. I’ll cover what I know to be important and of benefit to kitchen designers who perhaps have never faced this particular design challenge before.

Aisle width is absolutely crucial. The standard 36” minimum is not enough room for a person to safely pass another person in a wheelchair, so a 48” or larger width is best, with the absolute minimum width being 42”. The turning radius for a wheelchair is about 5 feet, so keep that in mind when spacing aisles. Doorways should also be increased from the standard 32” to 36 inches, which allows for a true opening of 32 inches. These issues can be a tricky aspect when dealing with a retrofit or a remodel, particularly if an island is a desired feature. Tables with four legs are a better option for an island, but measure the height and make sure it is going to work with the wheelchair arms. That height number will most likely change other chair heights, too.

Generally, the armrest on a wheelchair is approximately 29 inches off the floor, so countertop height should be 32” from the floor and certainly no more than 34”. The absolute minimum countertop height is no less than 28 inches but that is too low, usually. The space required for knees to fit comfortably while seated is 24 inches minimum from floor to top of knees a most chairs are around 30 inches in width. The BEST option is to vary countertop heights throughout the kitchen so they are accessible to taller adults and smaller children. Also keep in mind that only about the forward 16 to 18 inches of countertop depth is really accessible, so storage is the best option for the rest of the standard 24” countertop. Rounding out corners where they exist is advisable to prevent bumps and bruises. Open shelves for the most frequently used items should be considered. Multiple pull-out cutting boards are quite helpful, too. Adjustable counters are available that are hydraulically operated, so the user can raise and lower as needed or desired. This is probably the most perfect option but not always the most feasible. The same hydraulic mechanisms make upper cabinetry more accessible, too and can really open up design possibilities for true accessibility.

Base cabinetry should have full extension pull outs on drawers and shelves, and for any lower cabinetry where deeper corners exist, lazy susans make for the easiest access. Glass fronts in the upper cabinets will make it easier to find things. Also, upper cabinetry should be installed at least 3 inches lower than convention heights, and possibly much lower if circumstances require. This height is relative to countertop height, so adjust accordingly.

The sink should be shallow to allow full access, no deeper than 6 inches. The drain should be at the back of the sink, if possible, so big deep “farmhouse” sinks won’t work here. Any exposed hot water pipes should be wrapped to prevent burns, as the space beneath the sink should be left open and unobstructed. And keep in mind how a cumbersome disposal unit will be competing with knees, or what it will look like from across the kitchen. A lever type faucet or a loop style is easiest to control, with knobs or crosses being the least optimal style choice. The light directly above the sink can be controlled easiest if the switch is installed on the face of the cabinetry instead of the wall.

For safety sake, consider an induction range or a glass cooktop and make sure to install it no higher than 34 inches. Induction cooktops are super efficient so they are perhaps the greenest choice as well as being safest for the user. Accidental fires are more likely to occur with an open flame cooktop, with burns and cuts being the two most common kitchen injuries. The control panel and control knobs for the cooktop should be located on a front as opposed to being beyond the burner area. This is much safer for the user, as are staggered burner areas versus the grid formation that is most commonly available. Again, keep in mind the safety of the user as well as the look of the unit.

Wall ovens with doors hinged on the side as opposed to the bottom are ideal and should be installed about 30 inches off the floor. This is also true for the microwave, which may also be installed on an appliance lift. Raising the dishwasher up off the ground by 10 inches allows for a storage drawer underneath and easier loading and unloading for the user with less bending. Individual dish drawer style dishwashers can be a good option, too, as they are made to be stacked or installed individually and are very water and energy efficient. Just make sure that the dishwasher is accessible from both sides.

All appliances should be “Energy Star Rated” for the most efficient use of electricity and water. A tankless hot water system is a great idea for a kitchen remodel. Not only do they use less energy by heating water as needed, the temperature high can be set to avoid scalds in the bathroom as well. This is a great feature, especially with aging adults or children who might otherwise scald themselves inadvertently.

Lighting is always important in a kitchen design, but perhaps more so when designing for an aging client. Task lighting is invaluable and should probably err on the more rather than less side of things here. Diminishing eyesight is common as we age, so contrast between objects becomes more important. Honed surfaces as opposed to glossy ones are much easier on the eye. Cabinetry finish color, flooring color and countertop colors should contrast one another so the lines are easier to see. So forget the “all white kitchen” on this one! Even a contrasting color at the countertop’s edge can make it easier for eyes to distinguish the counters edge and avoid spills and broken glass.

The design decisions we make now can have a positive long term impact on everyone that comes into contact with and uses the spaces we create. Keeping in mind all users and a multitude of ability levels allows for a more humble approach to the design process we often take for granted. Ergonomics and the proper placement of various elements of design can impact us all, and probably will at some point in our lives. Keeping this in mind, as well as the energy inputs and requirements for products we specify, helps us to design for the future; one we are all in on.

]]> http://www.ecoechohome.com/blog/kitchen-design-for-all/feed 0 http://www.ecoechohome.com/blog/tax-credits-and-energy-savings http://www.ecoechohome.com/blog/tax-credits-and-energy-savings#comments Mon, 01 Feb 2010 08:09:09 +0000 admin http://www.ecoechohome.com/blog/?p=804

A winter of high power bills? Not for some!

The recent cold snap sent our gas and electric meters into overdrive as we all tried to stay warm, and the higher bills we all just opened proves it. But many folks suffered more than a little sticker shock. Many of you had a cold breeze coming in around your windows and doors, cold floors to walk on and freezing pipes to fix. If that was you, there has never been a better time to fix the problem so you not only save on energy usage and costs, you get a cozy, more comfortable home and fewer plumbing issues to attend to as well. And did I mention the possible tax incentives? Let me explain.

Replacing old leaky windows with new Energy Star rated ones can save lots of energy as well as qualify for tax credits. Unless the window sizes are custom, window replacement is relatively fast and inexpensive for the added value you get in return. Here in the Northwest, replacing single pane windows can save $460 per year, according to the Energy Star website. Replacing double paned saves around $50.00 per year.

Roof replacement and adding proper insulation also qualify for tax credits, both for up to 30% of the materials cost. Upgrading an older furnace with a more efficient on also qualifies, with labor included in the total of 30% of the costs. And don’t forget the water heater and refrigerator, two appliances that are almost never turned off. Speaking of water heaters, the addition of a solar hot water system might be a wise idea. Granted, many people had theirs freeze up on them during the above mentioned cold weather, but overall they are a great use of the sun’s free energy.

The best thing to do is to check with your tax professional or accountant for the details about your personal tax situation and tax credit availability. But even if you have no tax liabilities and will get no tax credit, you still stand to improve your property value, increase the homes efficiency, decrease your power bills and fell better on the inside…of your house.